Final Days in Luang Probang

After 3 packed and full days in Luang Probang, I needed a day off from activity, and needed to figure out how and when my next bout of travel would take place, which I spent the morning researching and arranging, and in the rainy afternoon wrote my most recent set of blogs. When I was done, I raced to my guesthouse in time to listen from my room the evening chants of the monks from 5:30-6pm over a cup of peppermint tea (which had become my daily routine), and had an excellent evening getting to know a handsome Dutchman over some grilled chicken and a whole grilled fish at the night market.

The next morning I got back on my bicycle to head to my second waterfall in Luang Probang- the Tat Sae Waterfall. This Waterfall was a good 10km closer than the Kuang Si which I rode to on the first day, but the terrain was much crazier, steeper, and challenging, so I spent yet another full day standing up on my pedals, climbing massive hills (on a town bicycle, no less!) and riding through many villages. At a certain point the road ended, a boatman was required to get the rest of the way to the falls for 20,000kip ($2.50US) It was a sweet experience, a long and slow motorboat that we cruised in for about 5-10 mins under the blazing sun. The waterfall itself was rather low, but for me these bike-riding days are all about the journey. I swam in the small pool that was there, and also fed a bunch of bananas to some elephants that were living in the area. After getting lost on the way back (but gloriously so, though tiring) I arrived back in town around 6 or 7pm and had a quiet night that evening, my usual tasty night market food, and went to bed early in anticipation of an all-day cooking class for the next day.

The cooking class was held at the Tamarind Restaurant, and it was great! The food was delicious, the people taking the class were interesting and fun, and our teacher was an excellent Lao Chef, and he taught us in a state-of-the-art outdoor kitchen under some palm-thatched roofs. We learned how to make sticky rice, a traditional Lao Eggplant dip, steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf with delicious spices, and bamboo stuffed with chicken. We also made a Lao stew, and turned the sticky rice into dessert with a coconut sauce and local fruits. Once we had cooked all of our new recipes, we sat down together at a long table and had a fantastic feast. It was a great day that stretched from 9am-3pm, and I made some Australian friends in the act, as well as a Chinese-Brazilian, and an American from Austin Texas.

I had connected in particular with an Australian guy and his mother who were traveling together through SE Asia, and I made plans with him to meet up with them a bit later in the evening. I was going to just head back to my room to shower and rest in the meantime, but I remembered that I had only 3,000kip (about 40 cents!) in my wallet, and that I should go to an ATM before meeting my new friends since we were going out to dinner, not to mention I was leaving the next morning on an early boat to make my way over two days to get to a 3-day jungle trek adventure I had signed up for.

I rode my bicycle down the road, and went to the first ATM I saw. I put the card in the machine, punched in my code, and then suddenly the screen went blank. Then it said 'out of order', and then the machine rebooted, and turned back on into its usual functioning mode, but, without ever having given me my card back. My jaw dropped and my eyes were wide. My card was gone! I searched the machine for a phone number or anything, but there was no information. I did my best to try not to panic, but it was 5pm on a Saturday evening, and I was pretty sure banks were closed until Monday, not to mention I didn't have the faintest idea who to contact.

I looked around me, and saw that the Luang Probang library was nextdoor. I figured at the very least, perhaps someone there would speak english, and maybe they could advise me on what to do- luckily, I was right! I found two Lao 20-somethings named Bee and Dao in there who were quite sympathetic, and told me that I probably wouldn't be able to get my card back until Monday. I looked quite stressed and asked if they thought there was any way to get someone to come, so, they left their posts at the library and hopped on their bicycles, and led me to the bank connected to the machine. They found the guy who lives and works at the bank (this is how things often are in Laos- a little room or cabinet with a person living inside, behind or next to the business itself) and told him my story, that I needed to get on a boat the next morning at 8am, and that my card was trapped in the machine.

He asked if I could wait until Monday- I said that I could, but it would mean possibly losing tickets, money, and a place in the trip I had signed up for, and asked if there was any way he could help me. He said maybe he could get it to me the next day around 9, 10 or 11 in the morning, and I said that if that was the only option then fine, but, I would still have to change everything. Quite unexpectedly, I started to cry in front of these 3 Lao strangers, blubbering somewhat like a small child or toddler, and could barely get words out to explain my situation, or give them my cell phone number that they had requested. I think the helplessness of my situation is what got to me, even though everything would really be fine even if I did have to wait until Monday.

They were all so sweet, putting their hands on my arm to comfort me, saying 'don't be sad! don't cry! it's okay!' and I found myself once again vulnerable and crying with perfect strangers who I could barely communicate with, and feeling completely helpless. It is a vulnerable feeling, indeed, to be in a foreign country without being able to speak the language, traveling alone, and suddenly have no access to cash.

The bank-employee (named Peng) told me he would do what he could, and would call me the next morning as soon as he knew what the situation was. I thanked them all profusely, and left feeling grateful and embarassed all at once, unable to stop my seemingly endless supply of tears. I was so touched by how much they had each helped me, and had gone out of their way for me.

I also realized that I needed to EAT FOOD which was a big reason I was so easily stressed and overwhelmed by this situation to such massive proportion, and, after sorting myself out a bit, met up with my Australian crew (Son, Mother, and Mother's Boyfriend). They were a great group to relax and enjoy with, and forget about worrying about my card. Great senses of humor, and fun and engaging conversation. Another great night at the night market- we stayed incredibly late until we were the last ones there, collecting friends from our cooking class and otherwise as they walked through, laughing and chatting into the wee hours. When I went to bed that night, I felt tired and happy, as well as feeling quite certain that I would not be leaving the next morning.

I turned my alarm off, and left it to fate- if Peng called me in time for me to get my ATM card, I would wake up to his call, meet him, and get on the boat. If not, I would sleep as late as I possibly could, and enjoy another day or two in Luang Probang! I let go completely of the outcome of the situation, and felt quite peaceful with whatever was to be.

I woke up to the sound of my cheerful cellphone ringing at 7:04am the next morning, and in my delirium of waking after perhaps 5 hours of sleep, I answered the phone and heard the words I was not expecting to hear from Peng- "I have the key to the ATM machine. Can you meet me there in 5 minutes?"

I threw my clothes on, and ran out the door. I hopped on my rented bicycle and raced down the street, and met Peng. He opened the machine, and got my card for me. I thanked him over and over. He went on to tell me that he had done it for me, that his boss had wanted to wash his hands of the situation and have me wait until Monday, since banks are usually only open from Mon-Friday, and that this was a very special exception that he made, because he wanted to help me, and that he had ridden his motorbike at 10pm the night before for half an hour to his bosses' ouse to get the key, and woke up early to meet me so I could make my boat. I was so amazed;I was so grateful. This was so kind and generous, it was hard to believe that anyone would go so far out of their way for a total stranger. I thinked thanked him over and over, and the more he explained his efforts, I decided I should give him some money for his trouble-he was grateful. I told him that I would remember his kindness, and that I greatly appreciated his efforts.

We parted ways after a few minutes as I still had a boat to catch! I zoomed down the street to my favorite grilled-chicken vendor lady, and got some food for the day, zipped back to my guesthouse where my bags were already packed from the night before, hailed a tuk-tuk, and said goodbye to the guys at the Symounkoun Guesthouse, who had become my home, and had taken to laughing at me on a daily basis as I would arrive soaked from the rain, covered in mud, or returning repeatedly after forgetting something.

I would miss this wonderful town, but, I was on to new places and more adventure!