If someone were to ask me the one thing they should do or see in South East Asia in any of the countries or cities that I have been to, I would say without a doubt ''Go to the markets!" And this applies to every single place I have been.
The markets of the villages and towns and cities in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia are the heartbeat of daily life, as far as I could tell. The markets (morning, day, and night) are a place where people not only get all of their fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, (red ants, frogs, pigs feet etc) but it is also a place where people socialize and gossip and connect. I have been told by many locals that some people visit their local markets at least 3 times a day, buying their produce one meal at a time. People working at the market are there all day, of course, so it is absolutely the center of their universe.
My second day in Phnom Penh, I rented a bicycle (my favorite way to see new places and explore), and wound up hitting many of the cities' markets, some deliberately and some accidentally. In the morning on my way to trying to find the ''Russian Market'' (Psar Tuol Tom Pong), I cycled through another market that took up a long stretch of the street as well as some attached alleys, and, there were so many people, flowers, fruits, meats, bananas- so colorful! So many people on bicycles, motorbikes, pushing carts, squeezing produce, chatting- and I never even figured out which 'market' this was- it may be that there are just markets anywhere and everywhere and so many that only the biggest are named.
Anyhow, after stopping to snap many photos, and also walking my bicycle through tiny people-crowded aisles at a snails pace (and nobody was annoyed that I brought my bike through, because EVERYONE is just all over each other and squeezing through spaces on foot, by bike, on motorbikes, that would never happen in America), I found the Russian Market. This was an indoor/covered market, with aisle after aisle of clothing, beautiful porcelain opium pipes (''for decoration only, of course''), shoes, scarves, cowbells, toys, mobiles, bed covers, haircuts, tools, food- you name it! There was anything and everything, and all of the stalls were selling the same stuff, so it is a serious bargaining experience with the supply being greater than the demand with straggling tourists who are ''just browsing''. This makes the sellers a bit pushier than I would like, though I sympathize- if they don't push, then a tourist could easily buy the same thing by a pushier seller just one stall away. I also kept getting lost in here, and was relieved when I finally found the food stalls where I sat down and had some Khmer Tea, and some chicken and rice.
From there, I went to ''Cafe Yeji" just across the street, a more modern and air-conditioned restaurant serving more upscale types of foods while promoting fair-trade and responsible employment. Next door, I visited ''Rajana,'' which also sells products made in fair-trade/fair-wage manners, with neat products including cards, wallets, cool decorative items, neat stuffed animals, and more. I bought my mommy something here (you'll get it eventually, Mom! The Cambodian postal system is slow!)
From there, I was already quite tired. I headed back to my guesthouse, which was a newer technique on my part- until now I had been going all morning, afternoon, and evening lately, and I was finally wearing out, as well as learning that if I am to survive my final few weeks in SE Asia, I had better take some time out! When returning to my guesthouse, I also wound up having a lengthy and very interesting conversation with some of the tuk-tuk drivers outside of my guesthouse, about life, politics, and of course the possible sights they could take me to the next day if I needed a tuk-tuk. :) This is something else about Cambodia I have noticed- even though everyone is trying to offer you their services and make a buck like everyone else in SE Asia, they are also totally willing and able to engage in easy and genuine conversation, even if your answer is ''no'', ''no'', and ''no'' again. I value this aspect of the Cambodian culture greatly, and have LOVED the conversations I have been able to have so easily with the locals. Smiles, laughs, and conversation come for free here in Cambodia- halelujiah!
I took a few hours ''off'' in my guesthouse- probably blogging and not REALLY resting- and when evening time came, I went cycling down the street to Orrussey Market in search of dinner- food food food galore! BBQ meat everywhere! My dream come true! I was so so very hungry, and usually there is not much that can get between me and food when I am hungry, but the sights of this market were so interesting, that I cycled around the market loop 3 times just to take photographs before it got too dark to do so. I can't wait to post these photos upon my return home! I wound up buying some grilled chicken and grilled pork from a super nice Cambodian guy and his wife, and got some to go, as well, as my appetite has been more endless than ever along my travels.
After dinner, though tired, I felt compelled to cycle to the riverside -Tonle Sap River. I thought I would just cycle along the street there, or, walk down the pedestrian walkway, and go home shortly thereafter. My plans were ''thwarted'' by a most beautiful and glorious and enlivening celebration!
Apparently, four times per month (usually once per week but not always) there is a day where Cambodians celebrate the Buddha, it is a holy day. On this particular night, there were two pagodas on the riverfront that were completely lit up with tiny lights, an people hovering around them. The first one I approached there were not too many people, but there was definitely something going on- I was approached by women and younger girls to buy flowers and incense to offer inside the small holy room, and though I did not know exactly what I was offering to/for yet, I accepted and went inside, and listened to a blessing of some sort in Cambodian, and was shown the proper way to offer and to kneel and such. That was neat, and I was happy enough and was ready to go home.
But, just a few hundred yards away was ANOTHER pagoda, and music, and THIS litte holy house was BURSTING at the seams with Cambodian people, offering flowers, incense, coconuts, buying caged birds and setting them free, while a traditional Cambodian group of musicians played endless beautiful warm soft joyous and sublime music, on percussion instruments as well as melodic malleted instruments that I have never seen or heard before. I believe I spent a good two hours there that night, just watching and listening and talking to some of the young kids trying to sell me birds and flowers, and trying to find out from someone who could speak English to explain to me what this was all for.
The entire two hours I was there, the crowds never slowed or dissipated. I do not know what time this celebration began, or what time it ended, but the atmosphere was so fully charged with spiritual energy and devotion, it was really a wonder to be a witness to. I often try and participate in local happenings and rituals when permittable, but in this case, I just wanted to watch and observe and take it all in and feel all of the joy it was bringing me in the purity of the hearts and spirits of all of these Cambodians. I could have stayed there all night for how much interest and joy it carried for me, but I eventually began to fade, and rode my bicycle happily home for a good night's sleep.
I felt so very lucky, because if I hadn't gone on that particular night, I would never have witnessed this beautiful, pure, and wonderful celebration of the Buddha.
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