After my first night out in Siem Reap, and a full day off from sight-seeing spent resting in my hotel room, I got back into the game, and had signed myself up for a morning cooking class at the Angkor Palm Restaurant just down the street to learn how to make Khmer (Cambodian) food, which so far in the four countries I have traveled to, has been my FAVORITE! So deliciously spiced and tasty and special!
Anyhow, the class was AWESOME! I was able to call in the morning and schedule a class for one hour later. Since I was the only one who signed up, it was just me, a private cooking class with 3 Cambodian Chefs all to myself, each of them taking turns showing me different parts of the preparation and cooking process. I am so lucky!! This sort of thing has happened to me a lot on this trip - one of many benefits of traveling solo.
For the first half hour, one of the chefs named 'Hak' took me to the local market to describe and explain all of the local produce and goods that are bought and sold on a daily basis to the locals, (most of which I was quite familiar with by now, due to the many cooking classes I have taken along the way during my SE Asia travels) including massive baskets brimming with red ants, as well as bowls filled with their eggs! Protein! :)
When we returned to the restaurant from the market, there was an immaculate room set up upstairs with all of the vegetables and spices that we were going to use that morning (see photos on facebook) and three mini-gas-stove burners. That day, I learned to make (at my request) Fish Amok (a traditional and DELICIOUS Khmer/Cambodian dish), Beef LocLac (Cambodian but not traditional), Stir-fried Morning Glory (traditional and common), as well as a most excellent dessert, made up of bananas, tapioca, mung bean seeds, coconut milk, and sugar, carefully boiled and prepared to create a perfect pudding-like consistency. This dessert actually took as long to make as all three of the othe savory dishes I wound up preparing, so we startd with dessert and I managed to coordinate successfully the cooking of 3 meals and a dessert all in the same 20 minute period (with, of course, the constant help and guidance of the chefs).
The three Cambodian Chefs who were teaching and assisting me were AWESOME! They were very friendly and encouraging and enthusiastic, and offered to take photos of me while I was cooking since I was on my own. It was a really fun time, and I always feel so happy after these cooking classes- so satisfied and accomplished!
When I was done preparing all 3 meals and the dessert, they set me up downstairs in the restaurant to eat all that I had made. It was all delicious and fantastic, and I couldn't have been happier. I had to take half of the food to go of course, (and gave the rest of the banana-tapioca dessert to the front-desk guy at my hotel) as even with my often insatiable appetite, it was too much food to eat all at once. When I was done eating my self-made cuisine, I asked one of the chefs if he would show me how to make the special banana-leaf bowl that they serve Amok and other foods in out here in Cambodia, so, he did! It is easy! Hopefully, I can find banana-leaves in the Asian Markets in Colorado so I can re-create these natural bowls back home- I will definitely be making these dishes when I return!
This cooking class was an excellent experience- I was really quite impressed. It was a great deal as well- not only did I have 3 private chefs teaching me, and learned how to make 4 dishes, but I got to eat all of the food as well- all of this for $20! The food alone would have cost $10-15 if I had ordered it in their restaurant as a customer, so basically for a few more dollars I got a 3-hour private cooking lesson AND the food- wow! I highly recommend this particular cooking class at the Angkor Palm restaurant in Siem Reap, as well as cooking classes as a whole in SE Asia. Usually, they are even cheaper than this! :)
When I was done with this wonderful cooking extravaganza, it was only 1pm, and I still had a 3-hour horseback ride in the countryside to look forward to later that afternoon! I felt like the luckiest girl in the world! (And, was quite pleased with myself for signing up for such excellent stuff!)
Monday, July 11, 2011
Arriving in Siem Reap and Day One
So many bus rides throughout SE Asia, they are starting to become a blur as of late, as I have been spending 3-4 days at a time in a city, and then making a bus trip anywhere from 4-10 hours in length between each city stay. So, I can tell you that the bus ride from Sihanoukville to Siem Reap was uneventful, because, I don't remember a thing, except that I left on July 1st (which I know only because I wrote it down), and that I left at 6:30 in the morning.
Ah, that's right- I slept for 1-2 hours on the first bus from Sihanouk--->Phnom Penh, woke up for the essential food stop and got some local cheap street food and tea, got on the next bus and passed out again pretty quickly. I believe we got into Siem Reap sometime around 6pm, after being picked up almost 12 hours earlier from my guesthouse. Long travel day!
Long travel days like that have started putting me totally out of commission for the entire next day, especially most recently, as I have been becoming more and more run down and worn out, tiring from my travels as a whole, and I have pushing myself at a really intense pace. So the whole first day, (the next day, July 2nd) I basically spent in my hotel room, at the Neth Socheata Hotel, which is one of the nicer and pricier places ($15/night) that I have stayed throughout this whole past 4 months. I usually like the more 'down-home' and 'family' style places, but I felt like it was time to give myself a little comfort, and enjoy the luxury. I spent that first day ordering food to my room, watching Cambodian HBO (but in English), and reading, and doing yoga on the public balcony that was pretty much empty all the time, and that I could climb out of my window onto. Also did some meditation each morning throughout this stay, which I had been not so good about maintaining as of late.
The night before, when I got in to Siem Reap, I went down the street to the Khmer Family Restaurant, and had a fantastic meal after checking into my hotel. The downtown was HAPPENING, a full on experience of restaurants, bars, clubs, music, massage parlors, tourists, tuk-tuk drivers- Siem Reap is DEFINITELY a touristy location. I could barely walk more than a foot or two without being asked if I needed a tuk-tuk or motorbike, and was pretty much constantly saying 'no thank you' and shaking my head as I walked down the street. This part was annoying, but otherwise the town seemed pretty fun. It seemed a place that was active at all hours of the day and night, and, seemed like there was actually some good fun and dining experiences to be had.
Cambodia's tourist-locations have so far been much more appealing to me than those in Laos and Thailand where there is much more of a 'younger-partier-drinking-out-of-buckets' type of partying. In Siem Reap, there seemed to be a much healthier mix of age and temperament (and Cambodia as a whole), and people come from everywhere to experience the historical sites of Angkor Wat and thus are more interested in that type of touring and exporing than partying.
Anyhow, that night after my meal, I got a most-excellent massage. After dinner and massage, I got approached by a young boy, perhaps 10 or 11 years old, asking me for money. At first I told him I didn't want to give him money, (partially just because all night I had been feeling harassed by all the tuk-tuk drivers and motorbike drivers and had already given money to another person earlier at dinner and was just wanting to be left alone) but then the boy said 'I don't want your money, I want to buy baby formula for my sister'. His sister was a tiny baby slung around his chest, passed out asleep, and looking none too healthy. Well, that was just about it for me- there was no chance of me resisting. This kid was asking for formula for his baby sister? How could I say no?? So, I said 'You want baby formula? Alright- let's go get some.' So he took me by the hand and led me to the nearest convenience store down the street, and we went hunting down the aisles.
He led me to the baby food section, and he selected a large heavy can of baby formula. Then, he led me to the diaper aisle, but the diapers were INSANELY expensive, and I told him maybe we'd just get the baby formula. Then he takes some shampoo off the shelf and asks for that, and also asks for a pair of little baby booties that were something like the equivalent of fifty cents in Cambodian Riel (the currency in Cambodia). So, I gave in- he wants shampoo? Booties for his little sister? What's another dollar or two? We go to the register and the man says 'That will be $26.25 please" and my jaw drops and I go 'Holy shit! Okay, kiddo, I think we need to buy a smaller can of formula, I can't spend $26 dollars on baby formula, maybe there is a cheaper kind.' We find a cheaper and smaller kind, and I wind up spending about $10-12 on him between the formula, booties, and shampoo.
We walk out of the store, and he thanks me and goes. Immediately another kid approaches me, taking me by the arm and hand, saying 'please please please' and also has a baby slung around his neck. At first I start to say 'no' because I just spent so much on the first kid, but, the pulling by my hand and the pleading eyes and the sleeping and dirty baby were too much for me. We also bought some formula and I also got the kid pringles for himself. Another $8-10 dollars spent on this kiddo. He thanked me as well, and the store-owner gave him a little bit of a knowing and dirty look, so I could tell I was not the first person he has brought to this store in the same way. When this kid walked away, another girl approached me with HER baby and started asking for the same, and finally, I had to say no. I had just spent somewhere between $20-25 on these two kids, and I had to walk away. It was hard, but I did.
It was a tough situation, because, I know that I can't just go dropping my cash every day and night on the poor kids in this town. Usually, people offer smaller amounts of money or give leftovers of food or something like that (as do I), but children are a weakness for me, and it was harder for me to say 'no' to formula for a baby sister than it was to say no for $1, or even some small change. Also, I have been reading all these books about the Khmer Rouge regime/take-over from 1975-1979 and all the starvation that people went through, and it has been giving me a more personal experience of feeling the suffering and hunger of others. So, when these kids approached me, and I had just had my sumptuous meal and massage, and they were asking for formula for their baby siblings, I just couldn't say no.
It is recommended by Lonely Planet and travelers in general to donate money to non-profits in the area instead of giving money to beggars, because when the kids are able to successfully beg lots of money from the streets, the parents will as a result keep the kids out of school. By donating to organizations, one can help to empower kids and adults by either offering direct services or helping to find work for the parents. But, in the moment, I just wanted to alleviate their suffering, and offer the feeling of a full belly the baby-siblings even if just for a few days or nights, if not the whole family. And, the Pringles? Well, not the most nutritious snack in the world, but again, maybe this kid peddling his sister around can have some tasty snacks once in a while. It just does not feel fair, and in the moment, I just wanted to give him whatever he wanted.
So, that was my first night. The next day was my special stay-in-my-room day, which, is one of three days in the past four months that I have done this in order to remove myself completely of external stimulus, and just completely turn off and rest. It is quite helpful, and did the job each time. Also, I had hurt/cut my foot running on the beach a couple of days before in Sihanoukville, and didn't want to do any serious temple-climbing, so I strategically gave myself enough time to heal before attempting Angkor Wat and any of the other temples. Along these same lines, for the next day- I had scheduled a cooking class, and a late-afternoon horse-back ride in the countryside!
Ah, that's right- I slept for 1-2 hours on the first bus from Sihanouk--->Phnom Penh, woke up for the essential food stop and got some local cheap street food and tea, got on the next bus and passed out again pretty quickly. I believe we got into Siem Reap sometime around 6pm, after being picked up almost 12 hours earlier from my guesthouse. Long travel day!
Long travel days like that have started putting me totally out of commission for the entire next day, especially most recently, as I have been becoming more and more run down and worn out, tiring from my travels as a whole, and I have pushing myself at a really intense pace. So the whole first day, (the next day, July 2nd) I basically spent in my hotel room, at the Neth Socheata Hotel, which is one of the nicer and pricier places ($15/night) that I have stayed throughout this whole past 4 months. I usually like the more 'down-home' and 'family' style places, but I felt like it was time to give myself a little comfort, and enjoy the luxury. I spent that first day ordering food to my room, watching Cambodian HBO (but in English), and reading, and doing yoga on the public balcony that was pretty much empty all the time, and that I could climb out of my window onto. Also did some meditation each morning throughout this stay, which I had been not so good about maintaining as of late.
The night before, when I got in to Siem Reap, I went down the street to the Khmer Family Restaurant, and had a fantastic meal after checking into my hotel. The downtown was HAPPENING, a full on experience of restaurants, bars, clubs, music, massage parlors, tourists, tuk-tuk drivers- Siem Reap is DEFINITELY a touristy location. I could barely walk more than a foot or two without being asked if I needed a tuk-tuk or motorbike, and was pretty much constantly saying 'no thank you' and shaking my head as I walked down the street. This part was annoying, but otherwise the town seemed pretty fun. It seemed a place that was active at all hours of the day and night, and, seemed like there was actually some good fun and dining experiences to be had.
Cambodia's tourist-locations have so far been much more appealing to me than those in Laos and Thailand where there is much more of a 'younger-partier-drinking-out-of-buckets' type of partying. In Siem Reap, there seemed to be a much healthier mix of age and temperament (and Cambodia as a whole), and people come from everywhere to experience the historical sites of Angkor Wat and thus are more interested in that type of touring and exporing than partying.
Anyhow, that night after my meal, I got a most-excellent massage. After dinner and massage, I got approached by a young boy, perhaps 10 or 11 years old, asking me for money. At first I told him I didn't want to give him money, (partially just because all night I had been feeling harassed by all the tuk-tuk drivers and motorbike drivers and had already given money to another person earlier at dinner and was just wanting to be left alone) but then the boy said 'I don't want your money, I want to buy baby formula for my sister'. His sister was a tiny baby slung around his chest, passed out asleep, and looking none too healthy. Well, that was just about it for me- there was no chance of me resisting. This kid was asking for formula for his baby sister? How could I say no?? So, I said 'You want baby formula? Alright- let's go get some.' So he took me by the hand and led me to the nearest convenience store down the street, and we went hunting down the aisles.
He led me to the baby food section, and he selected a large heavy can of baby formula. Then, he led me to the diaper aisle, but the diapers were INSANELY expensive, and I told him maybe we'd just get the baby formula. Then he takes some shampoo off the shelf and asks for that, and also asks for a pair of little baby booties that were something like the equivalent of fifty cents in Cambodian Riel (the currency in Cambodia). So, I gave in- he wants shampoo? Booties for his little sister? What's another dollar or two? We go to the register and the man says 'That will be $26.25 please" and my jaw drops and I go 'Holy shit! Okay, kiddo, I think we need to buy a smaller can of formula, I can't spend $26 dollars on baby formula, maybe there is a cheaper kind.' We find a cheaper and smaller kind, and I wind up spending about $10-12 on him between the formula, booties, and shampoo.
We walk out of the store, and he thanks me and goes. Immediately another kid approaches me, taking me by the arm and hand, saying 'please please please' and also has a baby slung around his neck. At first I start to say 'no' because I just spent so much on the first kid, but, the pulling by my hand and the pleading eyes and the sleeping and dirty baby were too much for me. We also bought some formula and I also got the kid pringles for himself. Another $8-10 dollars spent on this kiddo. He thanked me as well, and the store-owner gave him a little bit of a knowing and dirty look, so I could tell I was not the first person he has brought to this store in the same way. When this kid walked away, another girl approached me with HER baby and started asking for the same, and finally, I had to say no. I had just spent somewhere between $20-25 on these two kids, and I had to walk away. It was hard, but I did.
It was a tough situation, because, I know that I can't just go dropping my cash every day and night on the poor kids in this town. Usually, people offer smaller amounts of money or give leftovers of food or something like that (as do I), but children are a weakness for me, and it was harder for me to say 'no' to formula for a baby sister than it was to say no for $1, or even some small change. Also, I have been reading all these books about the Khmer Rouge regime/take-over from 1975-1979 and all the starvation that people went through, and it has been giving me a more personal experience of feeling the suffering and hunger of others. So, when these kids approached me, and I had just had my sumptuous meal and massage, and they were asking for formula for their baby siblings, I just couldn't say no.
It is recommended by Lonely Planet and travelers in general to donate money to non-profits in the area instead of giving money to beggars, because when the kids are able to successfully beg lots of money from the streets, the parents will as a result keep the kids out of school. By donating to organizations, one can help to empower kids and adults by either offering direct services or helping to find work for the parents. But, in the moment, I just wanted to alleviate their suffering, and offer the feeling of a full belly the baby-siblings even if just for a few days or nights, if not the whole family. And, the Pringles? Well, not the most nutritious snack in the world, but again, maybe this kid peddling his sister around can have some tasty snacks once in a while. It just does not feel fair, and in the moment, I just wanted to give him whatever he wanted.
So, that was my first night. The next day was my special stay-in-my-room day, which, is one of three days in the past four months that I have done this in order to remove myself completely of external stimulus, and just completely turn off and rest. It is quite helpful, and did the job each time. Also, I had hurt/cut my foot running on the beach a couple of days before in Sihanoukville, and didn't want to do any serious temple-climbing, so I strategically gave myself enough time to heal before attempting Angkor Wat and any of the other temples. Along these same lines, for the next day- I had scheduled a cooking class, and a late-afternoon horse-back ride in the countryside!
Sunday, July 10, 2011
The Last 3 Days of Sihanoukville
The next 3 days of Sihanoukville are more of a blur of events and happenings that I can summarize easily in one blog.
I had gotten into a bit of stressful contact via email from back in the states, and it was preoccupying my mind and experience our here on the Cambodian beach. I realized that if I were to enjoy this relaxing setting, I should really just stay away from the internet, especially first thing in the morning. Alas, I am addicted, especially around the times that I write and post blogs- I get lots of responses back, and I like reading them! Nonetheless, while reading through my usual cheerful and positive emails, there were a few misunderstandings that needed to be dealt with, and I felt powerless to resolve them from my far away location of Cambodia. So, I decided to try and leave this stuff behind that I could not do anything about, and kept trying to relax on the beach and got approached approximately 4 times per minute by people trying to sell me boat trips as I lay on a beach chair on a beach somewhere, until finally when the 5th guy approached with his board full of photos and descriptions of boat trips, I cried out to him before he could fully approach 'I can not talk about boat-trips right now! I just want to relax! Please don't try and sell me a boat-trip package!' and promptly burst into tears. This guy was super nice and put his board to the side, and sat down on a beach chair next to me, and in his limited english, asked me what was wrong. I didn't go into great detail, but just told him I was having troubles from back home and felt powerless to fix them, and felt very lonely being so far away, and that it didn't help matters that people only talk to me to try and sell me something. He was very sweet, and listened, and offered words of comfort, and finally, came up with some advice. "I think that you should be happy, and, just forget about this stuff. And, you should come on this boat-trip with me tomorrow, and forget all about your problems!" :)
I thanked the boat-trip-seller guy for being a kind stranger and offering comfort, and promptly approached a Cambodian woman named Nung who had been trying to offer me a massage just a few minutes earlier who I had turned down. Again- why resist? So, she gave me a most excellent $5 massage on the beach chair in the sun, and my troubled-mind and tense body melted away into her nurturing hands and into the sounds of the ocean.
That evening I probably just took it easy- did a bit of blogging, had a good dinner at the guesthouse, a little Connect-4, and early to bed with a good book.
The next morning, I joined Joe, our Australian guesthouse owner, on his boat, along with about 6 other tourists for an all-day excursion. We just took a nice trip out for about an hour to a remote island, dropped anchor, and hung out swimming and snorkeling in the water for a few hours. I flirted with a handsome Frenchman that I met in the water, and on the boat, I had excellent conversations with a young and enthusiastic Australian couple named Mollie and Nat, as well as a nice American from Oregon.
This crew was great company, and we all wound up fishing off the boat with fishing line tied to a plastic bottle given to us by one of the boat crew. We had a nice time of quietly waiting for a bite, when I found myself quite tired, and went and passed out on the roof of the boat for a bit (on this trip, I have become quite capable of sleeping almost anywhere, even the most uncomfortable and hard surfaces, and with loud noise!) until I awoke to Mollie saying she had caught something, and then hearing the words 'Seasnake! Seasnake!' and then Joe saying 'Don't you dare bring that seasnake onto MY boat!' I woke up and wriggled on my belly from my rooftop position to sneak a peak at this catch, and could see the line with a snake all coiling and struggling. Apparently, they let the snake go, and hopefully he made it out of the situation alive!
When we got back to the guesthouse, Nat, Mollie, Morgan and I spent hours and late into the night in the downstairs restaurant/bar area, playing Spades, Jenga, talking for hours, playing Connect 4, and playing dj with Sophar's ipod. It was really fun, and I actually indulged in a few mixed cocktails that Sophar gave me for free. For those of you who aren't aware of my drinking habits, I can tell you that the last drink I had was on Halloween of 2010, and before that, it was New Years 2009/2010! I was in the flow, having fun, and the drink was tasty (and free!) I had great conversations with Mollie that night as well as with everyone else, and didn't make it to bed until 1 or 2am. This is a rare bedtime for me in general, and especially on this trip! I have been more of an early-to-bed and early-to-rise type of traveler, especially with my non-alcohol drinking self! It was fun! That said, these types of evenings remain a rarity and a special occassion for me. I like feeling awake and aware too much, and meditating and practicing yoga and riding motorbikes!
The last day I got another massage from my lovely Nung on the beach, who after both massages gave me a surplus of hugs for no reason whatseover. I was incredibly greatful to her for this. It felt so good to be hugged, and I realized that through all of my travels, and all of the friends that I have made along the way, I am still missing some serious hugging-action! In these particular days I was feeling rather down-and-out despite all the fun goings-on, and homesick, and stressed about misunderstandings from back home, so, this hugging was particularly welcome and appreciated. Later that afternoon, I called up Ngan, a motorbike taxi driver who was particularly nice and had driven me and Joe on his motorbike to the dock the day before, and asked him if he would just take me around Sihanoukville to see the market and some other random and local sites.
Ngan came to pick me up, and we spent 2-3 hours out on his bike, and he dropped me off at the central market to explore. This was my favorite part of Sihanoukville. It was a beautiful beach town and lovely, but was quite touristy where I was staying. It was nice to get back to seeing the local life, and once again, I got TONS of excellent photos that I can't wait to post upon my return to the states in the near future.
When I parted ways with Ngan, I asked him 'How much do I owe you?' and he said 'It's up to you.' This was definitely new for me! Usually everywhere I have been in SE Asia, a great bargaining-duel ensues when it comes to such matters, but here was this sweet generous and gentle man saying 'you decide'. So, I paid him more than what most people would have probably asked for. He also asked me about my departure the next morning to Siem Reap, and when I told him I would be coming to meet my bus at 6:30am, he said he would be there to see me off. I was quite surprised by this, and wondered if I would indeed see him the next morning.
6:30 the next morning, I walked the 5-minute walk from my guesthouse along the beach to the main road, and halfway, there was Ngan, smiling and waving, keeping his promise to see me off. It was the sweetest thing, and I was quite touched. Before I got on my bus, I turned to say good bye to him and when he offered me his hand for a handshake, I instead threw my arms around him in a big hug. He was quite surprised and pleased, and we waved and waved, me from the bus and he from the road, watching the bus depart until we were out of sight. I was off to Siem Reap, the much talked-about location of Angkor Wat!
I had gotten into a bit of stressful contact via email from back in the states, and it was preoccupying my mind and experience our here on the Cambodian beach. I realized that if I were to enjoy this relaxing setting, I should really just stay away from the internet, especially first thing in the morning. Alas, I am addicted, especially around the times that I write and post blogs- I get lots of responses back, and I like reading them! Nonetheless, while reading through my usual cheerful and positive emails, there were a few misunderstandings that needed to be dealt with, and I felt powerless to resolve them from my far away location of Cambodia. So, I decided to try and leave this stuff behind that I could not do anything about, and kept trying to relax on the beach and got approached approximately 4 times per minute by people trying to sell me boat trips as I lay on a beach chair on a beach somewhere, until finally when the 5th guy approached with his board full of photos and descriptions of boat trips, I cried out to him before he could fully approach 'I can not talk about boat-trips right now! I just want to relax! Please don't try and sell me a boat-trip package!' and promptly burst into tears. This guy was super nice and put his board to the side, and sat down on a beach chair next to me, and in his limited english, asked me what was wrong. I didn't go into great detail, but just told him I was having troubles from back home and felt powerless to fix them, and felt very lonely being so far away, and that it didn't help matters that people only talk to me to try and sell me something. He was very sweet, and listened, and offered words of comfort, and finally, came up with some advice. "I think that you should be happy, and, just forget about this stuff. And, you should come on this boat-trip with me tomorrow, and forget all about your problems!" :)
I thanked the boat-trip-seller guy for being a kind stranger and offering comfort, and promptly approached a Cambodian woman named Nung who had been trying to offer me a massage just a few minutes earlier who I had turned down. Again- why resist? So, she gave me a most excellent $5 massage on the beach chair in the sun, and my troubled-mind and tense body melted away into her nurturing hands and into the sounds of the ocean.
That evening I probably just took it easy- did a bit of blogging, had a good dinner at the guesthouse, a little Connect-4, and early to bed with a good book.
The next morning, I joined Joe, our Australian guesthouse owner, on his boat, along with about 6 other tourists for an all-day excursion. We just took a nice trip out for about an hour to a remote island, dropped anchor, and hung out swimming and snorkeling in the water for a few hours. I flirted with a handsome Frenchman that I met in the water, and on the boat, I had excellent conversations with a young and enthusiastic Australian couple named Mollie and Nat, as well as a nice American from Oregon.
This crew was great company, and we all wound up fishing off the boat with fishing line tied to a plastic bottle given to us by one of the boat crew. We had a nice time of quietly waiting for a bite, when I found myself quite tired, and went and passed out on the roof of the boat for a bit (on this trip, I have become quite capable of sleeping almost anywhere, even the most uncomfortable and hard surfaces, and with loud noise!) until I awoke to Mollie saying she had caught something, and then hearing the words 'Seasnake! Seasnake!' and then Joe saying 'Don't you dare bring that seasnake onto MY boat!' I woke up and wriggled on my belly from my rooftop position to sneak a peak at this catch, and could see the line with a snake all coiling and struggling. Apparently, they let the snake go, and hopefully he made it out of the situation alive!
When we got back to the guesthouse, Nat, Mollie, Morgan and I spent hours and late into the night in the downstairs restaurant/bar area, playing Spades, Jenga, talking for hours, playing Connect 4, and playing dj with Sophar's ipod. It was really fun, and I actually indulged in a few mixed cocktails that Sophar gave me for free. For those of you who aren't aware of my drinking habits, I can tell you that the last drink I had was on Halloween of 2010, and before that, it was New Years 2009/2010! I was in the flow, having fun, and the drink was tasty (and free!) I had great conversations with Mollie that night as well as with everyone else, and didn't make it to bed until 1 or 2am. This is a rare bedtime for me in general, and especially on this trip! I have been more of an early-to-bed and early-to-rise type of traveler, especially with my non-alcohol drinking self! It was fun! That said, these types of evenings remain a rarity and a special occassion for me. I like feeling awake and aware too much, and meditating and practicing yoga and riding motorbikes!
The last day I got another massage from my lovely Nung on the beach, who after both massages gave me a surplus of hugs for no reason whatseover. I was incredibly greatful to her for this. It felt so good to be hugged, and I realized that through all of my travels, and all of the friends that I have made along the way, I am still missing some serious hugging-action! In these particular days I was feeling rather down-and-out despite all the fun goings-on, and homesick, and stressed about misunderstandings from back home, so, this hugging was particularly welcome and appreciated. Later that afternoon, I called up Ngan, a motorbike taxi driver who was particularly nice and had driven me and Joe on his motorbike to the dock the day before, and asked him if he would just take me around Sihanoukville to see the market and some other random and local sites.
Ngan came to pick me up, and we spent 2-3 hours out on his bike, and he dropped me off at the central market to explore. This was my favorite part of Sihanoukville. It was a beautiful beach town and lovely, but was quite touristy where I was staying. It was nice to get back to seeing the local life, and once again, I got TONS of excellent photos that I can't wait to post upon my return to the states in the near future.
When I parted ways with Ngan, I asked him 'How much do I owe you?' and he said 'It's up to you.' This was definitely new for me! Usually everywhere I have been in SE Asia, a great bargaining-duel ensues when it comes to such matters, but here was this sweet generous and gentle man saying 'you decide'. So, I paid him more than what most people would have probably asked for. He also asked me about my departure the next morning to Siem Reap, and when I told him I would be coming to meet my bus at 6:30am, he said he would be there to see me off. I was quite surprised by this, and wondered if I would indeed see him the next morning.
6:30 the next morning, I walked the 5-minute walk from my guesthouse along the beach to the main road, and halfway, there was Ngan, smiling and waving, keeping his promise to see me off. It was the sweetest thing, and I was quite touched. Before I got on my bus, I turned to say good bye to him and when he offered me his hand for a handshake, I instead threw my arms around him in a big hug. He was quite surprised and pleased, and we waved and waved, me from the bus and he from the road, watching the bus depart until we were out of sight. I was off to Siem Reap, the much talked-about location of Angkor Wat!
1st day in Sihanoukville
I went to Sihanoukville, a 4-hour bus drive south of Phnom Penh, at the recommendation of my first tuk-tuk driver in Phnom Penh, 'Ha.' His brother lives there, and he almost joined me on the bus to go for a little visit, but alas, I went alone. I kind of wish he had come so I could have had more of a local-insider's view- but instead, I wound up feeling a bit bombarded as a tourist, by all of the locals trying to sell me boat-tours, offering tuk-tuks and motorbikes, selling jewelry and trinkets, massage, manicures and pedicures, and kids making bracelets that spell your name.
That said, I have learned along the way that sometimes, resistance is futile, not to mention, can actually cause more stress than just giving in. Certainly, I am never going to buy something if I don't want it, but sometimes if the price is low, and I think I can give a little trinket to a friend or even another little kid along the way, then, it makes everybody happy, and a kid or even an adult seller will make what is a relatively decent amount of money, that to me is quite small. It is also an opportunity to interact on a slightly more personal level, once you give in to buying.
So, on my first morning, 3 kids approached me, trying to sell me bracelets with my name spelled out (they make it for you right then and there in 5-10 minutes with incredible speed and dexterity) as well as a 20-year old girl (who I would have pegged as 14, at most, but was pregnant with her 3rd child, and was TINY!) who was offering me a manicure and pedicure. I am not usually the 'mani-pedi' type, but she was offering both of these services for $4 total, and my feet had become quite unsightly over the many weeks and month of travel, so, I figured, what the heck, and allowed myself to be taken over by these 3 kids, and I commissioned a bracelet from 2 of them, and while they made my personalized bracelets ("one for your sister perhaps?") the other girl went to work beautifying my feet and hands. I feel a bit uncomfortable in some ways being 'served' in this way by kids, but I also know that it is a way that they are earning income to help themselves and their families, so, it is actually okay, and I was happy because I got to ask them lots of questions and get to know them during this 15-20 minute little session. The 20-year old girl tried to talk me in to a crazy 'hair-removal' technique that uses only baby powder and a string to pull hairs from a persons leg (or eyebrows, or wherever the person desires) it is crazy that it works! She demonstrated on a small patch of my leg to try and sell me this service, but it was too prickly and made me jump every time she succeeded in her mission.
After this, I wound up bumping into a woman named Amy that I had met the night before, and she was there with her friend Gillian, who had her 2 kids with her (9 year old Talia and 12 year old Trevor). My plans for the day consisted of wanting to hole up in my bungalow all day and do nothing but read, nap, and drink tea, but the family invited me to come with them on a day tour that involved a boat-ride through national park area of mangroves, and then a tuk-tuk ride to a Monastery. Gillian even offered to just pay for everything, and have me as their guest. How could I say no? These sorts of trips are the sort of thing that I would be unlikely to motivate to do on my own, and are much better enjoyed in a group setting like this, so, I joined them, and I am so glad I did!
We went in the tuk-tuk to a small fishing village, and took a nice small-motorized boat ride through the mangrove forests, and stopped at a long wooden bridge-platform that led us to a five-story wooden rickety viewpoint overlook that we climbed. We took some photos, and headed back to the boat. I spent my time talking to the Cambodian ranger, as well as listening to the enthusiastic and charming stories of Talia and Trevor. It was quite fun!
In the tuk-tuk ride to the temple, we all chatted and shared, and upon arriving at the monastery, we quickly wound up in conversation with many monks that were sitting on benches there. They wound up giving us each a blessing in the form of a white string around each of our wrists with a chanted incantation, it was quite lovely. Then I went exploring in one of the temples, and gave an offering of incense and prayers, and wound up giggling and joking around with a bunch of younger monks and temple boys. I got some fantastic photos of them all, and felt quite lucky at getting to experience the monks on such a level. In my experience so far in SE Asia, monks are pretty distant from interactions from women, so, this felt quite special. People have a lot of preconceived notions about what monks are 'supposed to be like', as though they are all serious and solemn and silent, but, they can be and often are quite silly, and many of them are but young adolescent boys!
We made our way back to town eventually, and went our separate ways. I wandered up and down the beach, and seeing many Cambodians wading in the ocean waves, I ran back to my bungalow to get my bathing suit, and went running into the ocean to soak in my favorite element in the universe- water. And, salty ocean water, especially! That evening I may have blogged, eaten dinner at my guesthouse, and played more Connect-4 with Sophar. Not a bad first day at all! I had been happy to be taken in by the family, and was looking forward to the next day of some solo relaxation on the beach. My 3.5 months of travel had been catching up with me for quite some time now, and though I had a slow and chilled out 2.5 weeks in Laos, even the 4 days in Phnom Penh had me worn out again already. Traveling is so amazing, but, especially on my own, it has been quite exhausting! Good thing I was in a beach town, where I could relax!
That said, I have learned along the way that sometimes, resistance is futile, not to mention, can actually cause more stress than just giving in. Certainly, I am never going to buy something if I don't want it, but sometimes if the price is low, and I think I can give a little trinket to a friend or even another little kid along the way, then, it makes everybody happy, and a kid or even an adult seller will make what is a relatively decent amount of money, that to me is quite small. It is also an opportunity to interact on a slightly more personal level, once you give in to buying.
So, on my first morning, 3 kids approached me, trying to sell me bracelets with my name spelled out (they make it for you right then and there in 5-10 minutes with incredible speed and dexterity) as well as a 20-year old girl (who I would have pegged as 14, at most, but was pregnant with her 3rd child, and was TINY!) who was offering me a manicure and pedicure. I am not usually the 'mani-pedi' type, but she was offering both of these services for $4 total, and my feet had become quite unsightly over the many weeks and month of travel, so, I figured, what the heck, and allowed myself to be taken over by these 3 kids, and I commissioned a bracelet from 2 of them, and while they made my personalized bracelets ("one for your sister perhaps?") the other girl went to work beautifying my feet and hands. I feel a bit uncomfortable in some ways being 'served' in this way by kids, but I also know that it is a way that they are earning income to help themselves and their families, so, it is actually okay, and I was happy because I got to ask them lots of questions and get to know them during this 15-20 minute little session. The 20-year old girl tried to talk me in to a crazy 'hair-removal' technique that uses only baby powder and a string to pull hairs from a persons leg (or eyebrows, or wherever the person desires) it is crazy that it works! She demonstrated on a small patch of my leg to try and sell me this service, but it was too prickly and made me jump every time she succeeded in her mission.
After this, I wound up bumping into a woman named Amy that I had met the night before, and she was there with her friend Gillian, who had her 2 kids with her (9 year old Talia and 12 year old Trevor). My plans for the day consisted of wanting to hole up in my bungalow all day and do nothing but read, nap, and drink tea, but the family invited me to come with them on a day tour that involved a boat-ride through national park area of mangroves, and then a tuk-tuk ride to a Monastery. Gillian even offered to just pay for everything, and have me as their guest. How could I say no? These sorts of trips are the sort of thing that I would be unlikely to motivate to do on my own, and are much better enjoyed in a group setting like this, so, I joined them, and I am so glad I did!
We went in the tuk-tuk to a small fishing village, and took a nice small-motorized boat ride through the mangrove forests, and stopped at a long wooden bridge-platform that led us to a five-story wooden rickety viewpoint overlook that we climbed. We took some photos, and headed back to the boat. I spent my time talking to the Cambodian ranger, as well as listening to the enthusiastic and charming stories of Talia and Trevor. It was quite fun!
In the tuk-tuk ride to the temple, we all chatted and shared, and upon arriving at the monastery, we quickly wound up in conversation with many monks that were sitting on benches there. They wound up giving us each a blessing in the form of a white string around each of our wrists with a chanted incantation, it was quite lovely. Then I went exploring in one of the temples, and gave an offering of incense and prayers, and wound up giggling and joking around with a bunch of younger monks and temple boys. I got some fantastic photos of them all, and felt quite lucky at getting to experience the monks on such a level. In my experience so far in SE Asia, monks are pretty distant from interactions from women, so, this felt quite special. People have a lot of preconceived notions about what monks are 'supposed to be like', as though they are all serious and solemn and silent, but, they can be and often are quite silly, and many of them are but young adolescent boys!
We made our way back to town eventually, and went our separate ways. I wandered up and down the beach, and seeing many Cambodians wading in the ocean waves, I ran back to my bungalow to get my bathing suit, and went running into the ocean to soak in my favorite element in the universe- water. And, salty ocean water, especially! That evening I may have blogged, eaten dinner at my guesthouse, and played more Connect-4 with Sophar. Not a bad first day at all! I had been happy to be taken in by the family, and was looking forward to the next day of some solo relaxation on the beach. My 3.5 months of travel had been catching up with me for quite some time now, and though I had a slow and chilled out 2.5 weeks in Laos, even the 4 days in Phnom Penh had me worn out again already. Traveling is so amazing, but, especially on my own, it has been quite exhausting! Good thing I was in a beach town, where I could relax!
Leaving Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
My final morning in Phnom Penh, the wonderful capital city of Cambodia was on June 26th, 2011. I scheduled a 2:30pm bus to Sihanoukville, an ocean/beach town 4 hours south, in order to take in another half-day's worth of sights in Phnom Penh.
I felt that as a tourist, I had a duty and obligation to go to the Royal Palace, and to see the National Museum. I am glad that I went to both places, just to have seen them, but to be perfectly honest, the museums (at least in SE Asia) are not usually my favorite places or experiences. From reading my previous blogs about Phnom Penh, you will have already gotten the impression that my favorite parts are just riding around on a bicycle and randomly exploring markets and street scenes, as well as cool rituals and the everyday goings-on of the city.
The Royal Palace was pretty to see, and I spent a bit of time there. I went to the National Museum next, but spent all of ten minutes in there, deciding that I really did not have interest in looking at small historical objects- I only had a few hours left, and the Museum was not holding my attention. What was most interesting to me was when I returned to the parking lot where bicycles and motorbikes are looked after for a small fee, and the attendant there was holding a large colorful rooster on his lap, and stroking it lovingly as though it were a pet poodle or kitty. I took his photograph, and then his friend laughed, and indicated that I, too, should get in a photo with the rooster, so, I did. :)
Just down the street was a restaurant called 'Friends' which was advertised in the Lonely Planet guide, due to the enrichment and direction it offers to many underprivileged kids from around Phnom Penh. The kids get taken in by project-leaders, and taken under their wings to be taught how to cook. The kids run the restaurant, and cook all of the food. There are at least two in-depth and mouth-watering cookbooks that are a result of this cool NGO, and, my meal was fabulous! It was cool seeing these kids in the flesh, while also reading about the project over my meal and reading the most excellent recipes that I hope to follow upon my return.
Next, I thought I was quite clever and was going to take a 'special shortcut' based on my map-reading ability, but wound up going in circles and 'getting lost'. That said, in my 'lostness', I wound up seeing all of the sights that I had originally intended to see, but thought I was going to miss. This included seeing the 'New Market' (just from the outside), Independence Monument, a huge large Golden Buddha statue in the middle of a major roundabout, and found numerous opportunities along a relatively quite strip of street to take a series of photos of my one of my favorite subjects- sleeping tuk-tuk drivers and motorbike taxi drivers. I am always so impressed with how they sleep in their hammocks in the tuk-tuks, or how the motorbike taxi drivers sleep along the length of their motorbikes! And, I always feel so sneaky(but in a good, satisfied way) capturing them on film while they sleep. Classic scenes of Cambodia and the other countries I have been visiting these past four months!
One more time, I thought I had the map and the streets under control, but once again, I realized after riding a while, that I had no idea where I was. But, where I found myself was really quite neat and special, and seemed like a well-kept secret from the rest of the city. It was a small-alleyed neighborhood, with tiny cafes and a very chilled-out and quiet feeling, and for some reason it gave me the impression of somewhere middle-eastern, even though I have never been to the midde east. It seemed like a place where people who operate on a very laid-back frequency could hang, people who are comfortable with silence, and don't need to speak a lot, but at the same time, when they do- it is important and well-thought out. This is the feeling I got within about 30 seconds of riding through this little area that bordered what seemed to be some sort of lake. When I asked a chilled-out Frenchman reading the paper if he knew where we were, he pointed to a place on my map- it turned out we were in the Boeng Kak Lake area, which, if I had more time in the city, or ever get the opportunity to return, I would go there and spend more time.
As I turned around to leave this neighborhood, I began to realize the time, and that I was coming dangerously close to missing my bus if I kept going at this rate of lost-ness, especially with my need to eat some food and take some to go as well. I gave in to my own stubborness to 'do it myself' and asked a tuk-tuk driver to take me (and the bicycle) back to my guesthouse. He did so, and miraculously I had exactly enough time to go to the Dragon guesthouse across the street, have a super tasty traditional Khmer meal, and pack one to go a well, and ran across the street to the Capitol Guesthouse, where my bus was leaving from. I managed to find a great guesthouse in a great location, but without being in a touristy area, while still having everything I needed conveniently nearby. Happiness and satisfaction were mine!
I got on the bus, and a few minutes later, we were off to Sihanoukville. I was one of two foreigners on the bus, which, I appreciated. We stopped halfway for a quick bathroom break and food break as well. These bus-stop rest-stop areas are great at catering to the bus passengers, and whip up tasty and hot meals in less than 5 minutes. I also had some excellent Cambodian tea which I like to drink hot, much to the surprise of most Cambodians who almost exclusively drink it over ice given the heat of the area.
We arrived in Sihanoukville around 6:30 or 7pm, and I was taken by a motorbike taxi driver to the road near my guesthouse, 'Cloud9'. He then carried my bag for me the 5 minute walk to my beachfront bungalow guesthouse, which was $10 a night (usually $25-35) due to the low season. I was quite excited abuot my bungalow with a little porch with hammock, and after settling in a bit, I came downstairs for some tea, and played Connect-4 with Sophar, one of the Cambodian bartenders working at Cloud9. He was a super fun and funny guy, and would say with smug satisfaction 'THANK YOU!!!' whenever I dropped a chip that gave him the winner status of the game. It was fun. This guesthouse is run by an eccentric older Australian man named Joe, who has more stories to tell than could ever be told. He had a tendency towards tangents which I could not understand half the time, but he had a jolly and cheerful disposition (while cynical) and had an excellent music selection playing at all times. That night I slept with my windows open, lulled to sleep by the beautiful sounds of the ocean waves.
I felt that as a tourist, I had a duty and obligation to go to the Royal Palace, and to see the National Museum. I am glad that I went to both places, just to have seen them, but to be perfectly honest, the museums (at least in SE Asia) are not usually my favorite places or experiences. From reading my previous blogs about Phnom Penh, you will have already gotten the impression that my favorite parts are just riding around on a bicycle and randomly exploring markets and street scenes, as well as cool rituals and the everyday goings-on of the city.
The Royal Palace was pretty to see, and I spent a bit of time there. I went to the National Museum next, but spent all of ten minutes in there, deciding that I really did not have interest in looking at small historical objects- I only had a few hours left, and the Museum was not holding my attention. What was most interesting to me was when I returned to the parking lot where bicycles and motorbikes are looked after for a small fee, and the attendant there was holding a large colorful rooster on his lap, and stroking it lovingly as though it were a pet poodle or kitty. I took his photograph, and then his friend laughed, and indicated that I, too, should get in a photo with the rooster, so, I did. :)
Just down the street was a restaurant called 'Friends' which was advertised in the Lonely Planet guide, due to the enrichment and direction it offers to many underprivileged kids from around Phnom Penh. The kids get taken in by project-leaders, and taken under their wings to be taught how to cook. The kids run the restaurant, and cook all of the food. There are at least two in-depth and mouth-watering cookbooks that are a result of this cool NGO, and, my meal was fabulous! It was cool seeing these kids in the flesh, while also reading about the project over my meal and reading the most excellent recipes that I hope to follow upon my return.
Next, I thought I was quite clever and was going to take a 'special shortcut' based on my map-reading ability, but wound up going in circles and 'getting lost'. That said, in my 'lostness', I wound up seeing all of the sights that I had originally intended to see, but thought I was going to miss. This included seeing the 'New Market' (just from the outside), Independence Monument, a huge large Golden Buddha statue in the middle of a major roundabout, and found numerous opportunities along a relatively quite strip of street to take a series of photos of my one of my favorite subjects- sleeping tuk-tuk drivers and motorbike taxi drivers. I am always so impressed with how they sleep in their hammocks in the tuk-tuks, or how the motorbike taxi drivers sleep along the length of their motorbikes! And, I always feel so sneaky(but in a good, satisfied way) capturing them on film while they sleep. Classic scenes of Cambodia and the other countries I have been visiting these past four months!
One more time, I thought I had the map and the streets under control, but once again, I realized after riding a while, that I had no idea where I was. But, where I found myself was really quite neat and special, and seemed like a well-kept secret from the rest of the city. It was a small-alleyed neighborhood, with tiny cafes and a very chilled-out and quiet feeling, and for some reason it gave me the impression of somewhere middle-eastern, even though I have never been to the midde east. It seemed like a place where people who operate on a very laid-back frequency could hang, people who are comfortable with silence, and don't need to speak a lot, but at the same time, when they do- it is important and well-thought out. This is the feeling I got within about 30 seconds of riding through this little area that bordered what seemed to be some sort of lake. When I asked a chilled-out Frenchman reading the paper if he knew where we were, he pointed to a place on my map- it turned out we were in the Boeng Kak Lake area, which, if I had more time in the city, or ever get the opportunity to return, I would go there and spend more time.
As I turned around to leave this neighborhood, I began to realize the time, and that I was coming dangerously close to missing my bus if I kept going at this rate of lost-ness, especially with my need to eat some food and take some to go as well. I gave in to my own stubborness to 'do it myself' and asked a tuk-tuk driver to take me (and the bicycle) back to my guesthouse. He did so, and miraculously I had exactly enough time to go to the Dragon guesthouse across the street, have a super tasty traditional Khmer meal, and pack one to go a well, and ran across the street to the Capitol Guesthouse, where my bus was leaving from. I managed to find a great guesthouse in a great location, but without being in a touristy area, while still having everything I needed conveniently nearby. Happiness and satisfaction were mine!
I got on the bus, and a few minutes later, we were off to Sihanoukville. I was one of two foreigners on the bus, which, I appreciated. We stopped halfway for a quick bathroom break and food break as well. These bus-stop rest-stop areas are great at catering to the bus passengers, and whip up tasty and hot meals in less than 5 minutes. I also had some excellent Cambodian tea which I like to drink hot, much to the surprise of most Cambodians who almost exclusively drink it over ice given the heat of the area.
We arrived in Sihanoukville around 6:30 or 7pm, and I was taken by a motorbike taxi driver to the road near my guesthouse, 'Cloud9'. He then carried my bag for me the 5 minute walk to my beachfront bungalow guesthouse, which was $10 a night (usually $25-35) due to the low season. I was quite excited abuot my bungalow with a little porch with hammock, and after settling in a bit, I came downstairs for some tea, and played Connect-4 with Sophar, one of the Cambodian bartenders working at Cloud9. He was a super fun and funny guy, and would say with smug satisfaction 'THANK YOU!!!' whenever I dropped a chip that gave him the winner status of the game. It was fun. This guesthouse is run by an eccentric older Australian man named Joe, who has more stories to tell than could ever be told. He had a tendency towards tangents which I could not understand half the time, but he had a jolly and cheerful disposition (while cynical) and had an excellent music selection playing at all times. That night I slept with my windows open, lulled to sleep by the beautiful sounds of the ocean waves.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Day Three in Phnom Penh
Some places I have traveled I can cover as much as a few days or a week in one blog, but the cities I often find myself describing one day at a time- that is how much there is to see and experience there! Also, I forgot to mention in my previous blog about Phnom Penh that on my second day, after Orrussey Market and before the Holy Buddha Day celebration, I ALSO went to the ''New"Market near the riverside, which is a nighttime market full of clothes, jewelry, some food, and had a large stage with a seriously cheesy man-woman singing duet to a karaoke-sounding backing track. I made the rounds, it was great, and then made my way to the surprise of the spiritual ritual down the way. I also forgot to mention the nightly dance-aerobics that go on along the riverfront, with large groups of Cambodians jazzercising for hours- fascinating and amusing as all get out! As well as some young boys breakdancing- amazing and incredible!
Anyhow, the next morning, on my 3rd and final full day in Phnom Penh, I hopped on my bicycle once again, wanting to see the riverside by daylight. I also made my way to the post office to mail some letters and packages, and found Wat Phnom, a major temple to see in the city, where lucky as ever, I met a young Cambodian who had just left his studies as a monk, but who was also just spending the day at the Wat looking for opportunities to practice his English by guiding tourists around for free. This was great for me, and it was nice learning about Cambodian monkhood and Buddhism from this introspective young man.
Next, I rode further down the riverside road in search of Chruoy Changvar Bridge- the 'Japanese Friendship Bridge'. This bridge was blown up during the fighting in 1975 when Phnom Penh fell under the Khmer Rouge Regime, and repaired by the Japanese in 1993. It wasn't a particularly interesting or extravagant-looking bridge, but it was its historic importance that drew me to it, and I rode the 700 meters across it on my bicycle in the dust and smog of endless cars, motorbikes and tuk-tuks to a small village on the other side, and turned around and came back just to say and know that I did it, and rode on such a historically important bridge.
Next, back on the 'right' side of the bridge once more, I cycled through some back streets, and found yet ANOTHER market which seemed like much more of a local/small-neighborhood scene, and while being curiously (but friendily) stared and smiled at, I checked out the weird and tasty looking foods being sold. I also found myself outside of some other large market that might have been Central Market or Psar O Russei but I don't even know! I then found a small quiet restaurant run by an Indian man who made me an Indian-style burger (??) and sat down to chat with me while I ate it and drank Cambodian Tea.
From there, I crossed into some side streets away from the riverside, and as I stopped to photograph a massive pig being turned on a roaster, I heard a bunch of ''hello''s from across the street- it was a bunch of street barbers smiling, waving, and saying hi! I waved and smiled back, and as I started to cycle away I noticed an acoustic guitar at one of their barber stations. The instinct to stay and sing and play hit me, but I shyly began to ride away.
About 30 seconds later, I changed my mind, decided to go with the energy and instinct that were pulling me back, and came back. First I stood on the road with my bike talking to one barber as he (somewhat jokingly) offered me a haircut, but quickly segued from there into my true interest- the guitar and music! I asked if they would play for me, and though the owner of the guitar started to play a well known song, he stopped short and asked ME to play instead. I had four or five barbers and a kid or two now surrounding me, but I felt only happy and excited to share, and wound up playing my old favorite ''Bobby McGee" while one guy clapped his hands spiritedly and rhythmically to my playing, while the rest bobbed their heads smiling and humming along when they could.
It was so fun stopping and hanging with these guys! This was another instance along my travels where I just was spending time connecting with locals, with no expectations, no buyer-seller intentions- just hanging out and having fun and enjoying each other's company! I was so happy that I just let go and went with my instincts on this one- these guys were so nice, and I tried playing the guitar parts for some of their Cambodian song, but it was a bit challenging without any formal sheet music or lyrics I could read along with!
Anyhow, it had already been a full day and it was afternoon again. I made my way back to my guesthouse for yet another afternoon siesta time, feeling I had experienced quite a full day already. To be honest, I don't remember what I did that night, but, I know I went somewhere for dinner! I was leaving the next afternoon, with plans to do as much as possible the next morning before getting on the bus south to Sihanoukville, where I would explore the sights of this little oceanside town.
Anyhow, the next morning, on my 3rd and final full day in Phnom Penh, I hopped on my bicycle once again, wanting to see the riverside by daylight. I also made my way to the post office to mail some letters and packages, and found Wat Phnom, a major temple to see in the city, where lucky as ever, I met a young Cambodian who had just left his studies as a monk, but who was also just spending the day at the Wat looking for opportunities to practice his English by guiding tourists around for free. This was great for me, and it was nice learning about Cambodian monkhood and Buddhism from this introspective young man.
Next, I rode further down the riverside road in search of Chruoy Changvar Bridge- the 'Japanese Friendship Bridge'. This bridge was blown up during the fighting in 1975 when Phnom Penh fell under the Khmer Rouge Regime, and repaired by the Japanese in 1993. It wasn't a particularly interesting or extravagant-looking bridge, but it was its historic importance that drew me to it, and I rode the 700 meters across it on my bicycle in the dust and smog of endless cars, motorbikes and tuk-tuks to a small village on the other side, and turned around and came back just to say and know that I did it, and rode on such a historically important bridge.
Next, back on the 'right' side of the bridge once more, I cycled through some back streets, and found yet ANOTHER market which seemed like much more of a local/small-neighborhood scene, and while being curiously (but friendily) stared and smiled at, I checked out the weird and tasty looking foods being sold. I also found myself outside of some other large market that might have been Central Market or Psar O Russei but I don't even know! I then found a small quiet restaurant run by an Indian man who made me an Indian-style burger (??) and sat down to chat with me while I ate it and drank Cambodian Tea.
From there, I crossed into some side streets away from the riverside, and as I stopped to photograph a massive pig being turned on a roaster, I heard a bunch of ''hello''s from across the street- it was a bunch of street barbers smiling, waving, and saying hi! I waved and smiled back, and as I started to cycle away I noticed an acoustic guitar at one of their barber stations. The instinct to stay and sing and play hit me, but I shyly began to ride away.
About 30 seconds later, I changed my mind, decided to go with the energy and instinct that were pulling me back, and came back. First I stood on the road with my bike talking to one barber as he (somewhat jokingly) offered me a haircut, but quickly segued from there into my true interest- the guitar and music! I asked if they would play for me, and though the owner of the guitar started to play a well known song, he stopped short and asked ME to play instead. I had four or five barbers and a kid or two now surrounding me, but I felt only happy and excited to share, and wound up playing my old favorite ''Bobby McGee" while one guy clapped his hands spiritedly and rhythmically to my playing, while the rest bobbed their heads smiling and humming along when they could.
It was so fun stopping and hanging with these guys! This was another instance along my travels where I just was spending time connecting with locals, with no expectations, no buyer-seller intentions- just hanging out and having fun and enjoying each other's company! I was so happy that I just let go and went with my instincts on this one- these guys were so nice, and I tried playing the guitar parts for some of their Cambodian song, but it was a bit challenging without any formal sheet music or lyrics I could read along with!
Anyhow, it had already been a full day and it was afternoon again. I made my way back to my guesthouse for yet another afternoon siesta time, feeling I had experienced quite a full day already. To be honest, I don't remember what I did that night, but, I know I went somewhere for dinner! I was leaving the next afternoon, with plans to do as much as possible the next morning before getting on the bus south to Sihanoukville, where I would explore the sights of this little oceanside town.
The Sights and Markets of Phnom Penh
If someone were to ask me the one thing they should do or see in South East Asia in any of the countries or cities that I have been to, I would say without a doubt ''Go to the markets!" And this applies to every single place I have been.
The markets of the villages and towns and cities in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia are the heartbeat of daily life, as far as I could tell. The markets (morning, day, and night) are a place where people not only get all of their fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, (red ants, frogs, pigs feet etc) but it is also a place where people socialize and gossip and connect. I have been told by many locals that some people visit their local markets at least 3 times a day, buying their produce one meal at a time. People working at the market are there all day, of course, so it is absolutely the center of their universe.
My second day in Phnom Penh, I rented a bicycle (my favorite way to see new places and explore), and wound up hitting many of the cities' markets, some deliberately and some accidentally. In the morning on my way to trying to find the ''Russian Market'' (Psar Tuol Tom Pong), I cycled through another market that took up a long stretch of the street as well as some attached alleys, and, there were so many people, flowers, fruits, meats, bananas- so colorful! So many people on bicycles, motorbikes, pushing carts, squeezing produce, chatting- and I never even figured out which 'market' this was- it may be that there are just markets anywhere and everywhere and so many that only the biggest are named.
Anyhow, after stopping to snap many photos, and also walking my bicycle through tiny people-crowded aisles at a snails pace (and nobody was annoyed that I brought my bike through, because EVERYONE is just all over each other and squeezing through spaces on foot, by bike, on motorbikes, that would never happen in America), I found the Russian Market. This was an indoor/covered market, with aisle after aisle of clothing, beautiful porcelain opium pipes (''for decoration only, of course''), shoes, scarves, cowbells, toys, mobiles, bed covers, haircuts, tools, food- you name it! There was anything and everything, and all of the stalls were selling the same stuff, so it is a serious bargaining experience with the supply being greater than the demand with straggling tourists who are ''just browsing''. This makes the sellers a bit pushier than I would like, though I sympathize- if they don't push, then a tourist could easily buy the same thing by a pushier seller just one stall away. I also kept getting lost in here, and was relieved when I finally found the food stalls where I sat down and had some Khmer Tea, and some chicken and rice.
From there, I went to ''Cafe Yeji" just across the street, a more modern and air-conditioned restaurant serving more upscale types of foods while promoting fair-trade and responsible employment. Next door, I visited ''Rajana,'' which also sells products made in fair-trade/fair-wage manners, with neat products including cards, wallets, cool decorative items, neat stuffed animals, and more. I bought my mommy something here (you'll get it eventually, Mom! The Cambodian postal system is slow!)
From there, I was already quite tired. I headed back to my guesthouse, which was a newer technique on my part- until now I had been going all morning, afternoon, and evening lately, and I was finally wearing out, as well as learning that if I am to survive my final few weeks in SE Asia, I had better take some time out! When returning to my guesthouse, I also wound up having a lengthy and very interesting conversation with some of the tuk-tuk drivers outside of my guesthouse, about life, politics, and of course the possible sights they could take me to the next day if I needed a tuk-tuk. :) This is something else about Cambodia I have noticed- even though everyone is trying to offer you their services and make a buck like everyone else in SE Asia, they are also totally willing and able to engage in easy and genuine conversation, even if your answer is ''no'', ''no'', and ''no'' again. I value this aspect of the Cambodian culture greatly, and have LOVED the conversations I have been able to have so easily with the locals. Smiles, laughs, and conversation come for free here in Cambodia- halelujiah!
I took a few hours ''off'' in my guesthouse- probably blogging and not REALLY resting- and when evening time came, I went cycling down the street to Orrussey Market in search of dinner- food food food galore! BBQ meat everywhere! My dream come true! I was so so very hungry, and usually there is not much that can get between me and food when I am hungry, but the sights of this market were so interesting, that I cycled around the market loop 3 times just to take photographs before it got too dark to do so. I can't wait to post these photos upon my return home! I wound up buying some grilled chicken and grilled pork from a super nice Cambodian guy and his wife, and got some to go, as well, as my appetite has been more endless than ever along my travels.
After dinner, though tired, I felt compelled to cycle to the riverside -Tonle Sap River. I thought I would just cycle along the street there, or, walk down the pedestrian walkway, and go home shortly thereafter. My plans were ''thwarted'' by a most beautiful and glorious and enlivening celebration!
Apparently, four times per month (usually once per week but not always) there is a day where Cambodians celebrate the Buddha, it is a holy day. On this particular night, there were two pagodas on the riverfront that were completely lit up with tiny lights, an people hovering around them. The first one I approached there were not too many people, but there was definitely something going on- I was approached by women and younger girls to buy flowers and incense to offer inside the small holy room, and though I did not know exactly what I was offering to/for yet, I accepted and went inside, and listened to a blessing of some sort in Cambodian, and was shown the proper way to offer and to kneel and such. That was neat, and I was happy enough and was ready to go home.
But, just a few hundred yards away was ANOTHER pagoda, and music, and THIS litte holy house was BURSTING at the seams with Cambodian people, offering flowers, incense, coconuts, buying caged birds and setting them free, while a traditional Cambodian group of musicians played endless beautiful warm soft joyous and sublime music, on percussion instruments as well as melodic malleted instruments that I have never seen or heard before. I believe I spent a good two hours there that night, just watching and listening and talking to some of the young kids trying to sell me birds and flowers, and trying to find out from someone who could speak English to explain to me what this was all for.
The entire two hours I was there, the crowds never slowed or dissipated. I do not know what time this celebration began, or what time it ended, but the atmosphere was so fully charged with spiritual energy and devotion, it was really a wonder to be a witness to. I often try and participate in local happenings and rituals when permittable, but in this case, I just wanted to watch and observe and take it all in and feel all of the joy it was bringing me in the purity of the hearts and spirits of all of these Cambodians. I could have stayed there all night for how much interest and joy it carried for me, but I eventually began to fade, and rode my bicycle happily home for a good night's sleep.
I felt so very lucky, because if I hadn't gone on that particular night, I would never have witnessed this beautiful, pure, and wonderful celebration of the Buddha.
The markets of the villages and towns and cities in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia are the heartbeat of daily life, as far as I could tell. The markets (morning, day, and night) are a place where people not only get all of their fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, (red ants, frogs, pigs feet etc) but it is also a place where people socialize and gossip and connect. I have been told by many locals that some people visit their local markets at least 3 times a day, buying their produce one meal at a time. People working at the market are there all day, of course, so it is absolutely the center of their universe.
My second day in Phnom Penh, I rented a bicycle (my favorite way to see new places and explore), and wound up hitting many of the cities' markets, some deliberately and some accidentally. In the morning on my way to trying to find the ''Russian Market'' (Psar Tuol Tom Pong), I cycled through another market that took up a long stretch of the street as well as some attached alleys, and, there were so many people, flowers, fruits, meats, bananas- so colorful! So many people on bicycles, motorbikes, pushing carts, squeezing produce, chatting- and I never even figured out which 'market' this was- it may be that there are just markets anywhere and everywhere and so many that only the biggest are named.
Anyhow, after stopping to snap many photos, and also walking my bicycle through tiny people-crowded aisles at a snails pace (and nobody was annoyed that I brought my bike through, because EVERYONE is just all over each other and squeezing through spaces on foot, by bike, on motorbikes, that would never happen in America), I found the Russian Market. This was an indoor/covered market, with aisle after aisle of clothing, beautiful porcelain opium pipes (''for decoration only, of course''), shoes, scarves, cowbells, toys, mobiles, bed covers, haircuts, tools, food- you name it! There was anything and everything, and all of the stalls were selling the same stuff, so it is a serious bargaining experience with the supply being greater than the demand with straggling tourists who are ''just browsing''. This makes the sellers a bit pushier than I would like, though I sympathize- if they don't push, then a tourist could easily buy the same thing by a pushier seller just one stall away. I also kept getting lost in here, and was relieved when I finally found the food stalls where I sat down and had some Khmer Tea, and some chicken and rice.
From there, I went to ''Cafe Yeji" just across the street, a more modern and air-conditioned restaurant serving more upscale types of foods while promoting fair-trade and responsible employment. Next door, I visited ''Rajana,'' which also sells products made in fair-trade/fair-wage manners, with neat products including cards, wallets, cool decorative items, neat stuffed animals, and more. I bought my mommy something here (you'll get it eventually, Mom! The Cambodian postal system is slow!)
From there, I was already quite tired. I headed back to my guesthouse, which was a newer technique on my part- until now I had been going all morning, afternoon, and evening lately, and I was finally wearing out, as well as learning that if I am to survive my final few weeks in SE Asia, I had better take some time out! When returning to my guesthouse, I also wound up having a lengthy and very interesting conversation with some of the tuk-tuk drivers outside of my guesthouse, about life, politics, and of course the possible sights they could take me to the next day if I needed a tuk-tuk. :) This is something else about Cambodia I have noticed- even though everyone is trying to offer you their services and make a buck like everyone else in SE Asia, they are also totally willing and able to engage in easy and genuine conversation, even if your answer is ''no'', ''no'', and ''no'' again. I value this aspect of the Cambodian culture greatly, and have LOVED the conversations I have been able to have so easily with the locals. Smiles, laughs, and conversation come for free here in Cambodia- halelujiah!
I took a few hours ''off'' in my guesthouse- probably blogging and not REALLY resting- and when evening time came, I went cycling down the street to Orrussey Market in search of dinner- food food food galore! BBQ meat everywhere! My dream come true! I was so so very hungry, and usually there is not much that can get between me and food when I am hungry, but the sights of this market were so interesting, that I cycled around the market loop 3 times just to take photographs before it got too dark to do so. I can't wait to post these photos upon my return home! I wound up buying some grilled chicken and grilled pork from a super nice Cambodian guy and his wife, and got some to go, as well, as my appetite has been more endless than ever along my travels.
After dinner, though tired, I felt compelled to cycle to the riverside -Tonle Sap River. I thought I would just cycle along the street there, or, walk down the pedestrian walkway, and go home shortly thereafter. My plans were ''thwarted'' by a most beautiful and glorious and enlivening celebration!
Apparently, four times per month (usually once per week but not always) there is a day where Cambodians celebrate the Buddha, it is a holy day. On this particular night, there were two pagodas on the riverfront that were completely lit up with tiny lights, an people hovering around them. The first one I approached there were not too many people, but there was definitely something going on- I was approached by women and younger girls to buy flowers and incense to offer inside the small holy room, and though I did not know exactly what I was offering to/for yet, I accepted and went inside, and listened to a blessing of some sort in Cambodian, and was shown the proper way to offer and to kneel and such. That was neat, and I was happy enough and was ready to go home.
But, just a few hundred yards away was ANOTHER pagoda, and music, and THIS litte holy house was BURSTING at the seams with Cambodian people, offering flowers, incense, coconuts, buying caged birds and setting them free, while a traditional Cambodian group of musicians played endless beautiful warm soft joyous and sublime music, on percussion instruments as well as melodic malleted instruments that I have never seen or heard before. I believe I spent a good two hours there that night, just watching and listening and talking to some of the young kids trying to sell me birds and flowers, and trying to find out from someone who could speak English to explain to me what this was all for.
The entire two hours I was there, the crowds never slowed or dissipated. I do not know what time this celebration began, or what time it ended, but the atmosphere was so fully charged with spiritual energy and devotion, it was really a wonder to be a witness to. I often try and participate in local happenings and rituals when permittable, but in this case, I just wanted to watch and observe and take it all in and feel all of the joy it was bringing me in the purity of the hearts and spirits of all of these Cambodians. I could have stayed there all night for how much interest and joy it carried for me, but I eventually began to fade, and rode my bicycle happily home for a good night's sleep.
I felt so very lucky, because if I hadn't gone on that particular night, I would never have witnessed this beautiful, pure, and wonderful celebration of the Buddha.
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