Sunday, July 3, 2011

Day Three in Phnom Penh

Some places I have traveled I can cover as much as a few days or a week in one blog, but the cities I often find myself describing one day at a time- that is how much there is to see and experience there! Also, I forgot to mention in my previous blog about Phnom Penh that on my second day, after Orrussey Market and before the Holy Buddha Day celebration, I ALSO went to the ''New"Market near the riverside, which is a nighttime market full of clothes, jewelry, some food, and had a large stage with a seriously cheesy man-woman singing duet to a karaoke-sounding backing track. I made the rounds, it was great, and then made my way to the surprise of the spiritual ritual down the way. I also forgot to mention the nightly dance-aerobics that go on along the riverfront, with large groups of Cambodians jazzercising for hours- fascinating and amusing as all get out! As well as some young boys breakdancing- amazing and incredible!

Anyhow, the next morning, on my 3rd and final full day in Phnom Penh, I hopped on my bicycle once again, wanting to see the riverside by daylight. I also made my way to the post office to mail some letters and packages, and found Wat Phnom, a major temple to see in the city, where lucky as ever, I met a young Cambodian who had just left his studies as a monk, but who was also just spending the day at the Wat looking for opportunities to practice his English by guiding tourists around for free. This was great for me, and it was nice learning about Cambodian monkhood and Buddhism from this introspective young man.

Next, I rode further down the riverside road in search of Chruoy Changvar Bridge- the 'Japanese Friendship Bridge'. This bridge was blown up during the fighting in 1975 when Phnom Penh fell under the Khmer Rouge Regime, and repaired by the Japanese in 1993. It wasn't a particularly interesting or extravagant-looking bridge, but it was its historic importance that drew me to it, and I rode the 700 meters across it on my bicycle in the dust and smog of endless cars, motorbikes and tuk-tuks to a small village on the other side, and turned around and came back just to say and know that I did it, and rode on such a historically important bridge.

Next, back on the 'right' side of the bridge once more, I cycled through some back streets, and found yet ANOTHER market which seemed like much more of a local/small-neighborhood scene, and while being curiously (but friendily) stared and smiled at, I checked out the weird and tasty looking foods being sold. I also found myself outside of some other large market that might have been Central Market or Psar O Russei but I don't even know! I then found a small quiet restaurant run by an Indian man who made me an Indian-style burger (??) and sat down to chat with me while I ate it and drank Cambodian Tea.

From there, I crossed into some side streets away from the riverside, and as I stopped to photograph a massive pig being turned on a roaster, I heard a bunch of ''hello''s from across the street- it was a bunch of street barbers smiling, waving, and saying hi! I waved and smiled back, and as I started to cycle away I noticed an acoustic guitar at one of their barber stations. The instinct to stay and sing and play hit me, but I shyly began to ride away.

About 30 seconds later, I changed my mind, decided to go with the energy and instinct that were pulling me back, and came back. First I stood on the road with my bike talking to one barber as he (somewhat jokingly) offered me a haircut, but quickly segued from there into my true interest- the guitar and music! I asked if they would play for me, and though the owner of the guitar started to play a well known song, he stopped short and asked ME to play instead. I had four or five barbers and a kid or two now surrounding me, but I felt only happy and excited to share, and wound up playing my old favorite ''Bobby McGee" while one guy clapped his hands spiritedly and rhythmically to my playing, while the rest bobbed their heads smiling and humming along when they could.

It was so fun stopping and hanging with these guys! This was another instance along my travels where I just was spending time connecting with locals, with no expectations, no buyer-seller intentions- just hanging out and having fun and enjoying each other's company! I was so happy that I just let go and went with my instincts on this one- these guys were so nice, and I tried playing the guitar parts for some of their Cambodian song, but it was a bit challenging without any formal sheet music or lyrics I could read along with!

Anyhow, it had already been a full day and it was afternoon again. I made my way back to my guesthouse for yet another afternoon siesta time, feeling I had experienced quite a full day already. To be honest, I don't remember what I did that night, but, I know I went somewhere for dinner! I was leaving the next afternoon, with plans to do as much as possible the next morning before getting on the bus south to Sihanoukville, where I would explore the sights of this little oceanside town.

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