Riding Horseback Around Siem Reap

From July 3rd, 2011, Siem Reap, Cambodia

After my excellent morning cooking class at the Angkor Palm Restaurant, I was getting ready to rent a bicycle to the 'Happy Ranch', a bit outside the city and in the countryside. As much as I was excited for a little bit of exercise and do-it-yourself exploring, I let my hotel reception-desk guy and the hotel tuk-tuk driver talk me into getting a ride there, just because it would be easy to get lost. So, I compromised- I agreed to a ride, but asked that we go by motorbike instead of tuk-tuk because it is cheaper, and also more fun to be riding on the back of a bike with the wind whipping through my hair, the sun on my face, and it just feels more real and fun.

So, "Mr. Mab" the tuk-tuk driver wound up unhitching his tuk-tuk trailer from his motorbike, and indicated that I should get on. Doh! What I didn't realize was that this meant that there was still the metal hitch attachment on the middle of the bike seat, so sitting regularly meant that my inner thighs were jammed against this hard metal frame, and every time we went over a bump (which was every 3 seconds on this bumpy hole-y rode, I got banged. I eventually had to angle my knees way out to the side which was definitely upsetting my ability to stay balanced and on the bike, but, about 10 or so minutes later, we made it there. Luckily, the owner of the Happy Ranch, "Sarry Pann" had told me on the phone that he would personally drive me back to my hotel after the ride, free of charge, so I was glad not to have this same ride to look forward to on my return back to town later on. :)

When I arrived at the ranch, many Cambodian ranch-workers smiled at me as I walked in, and I was introduced to Chey, my guide, and "Mexico", my horse! I have ridden a number of times in my life, but all randomly and sporadically and at times far apart from each other. So, I'm not a total beginner, but not really very experienced or confident. That said, I have enough familiarity to feel comfortable.

Riding horses is a good exercise for me, because, one must be very confident, firm, and clear for the horse to relax and take direction from its rider. At first, Mexico and I were having communication problems due to my lack of assertiveness, and would turn the wrong way, or just stop walking altogether, but within the first half an hour or so, we got on the same page, and I found my assertiveness that I reminded myself was already there, especially after almost 4 months of travel in SE Asia.

So, Chey and I rode our horses down country road paths, waving to farmers and locals, checking out the green and gorgeous scenery of fields and rice growing, with blue and cloudy skies. After about half an hour, it started to rain, so, Chey pulled us over to seek respite and cover under a local woman's front porch, and we waited the rain out for a good 45 minutes under her porch cover. The woman had a small daughter of about 5 or 6 years old with her who was very cute and a bit shy, but definitely interested in watching us and the horses. Mostly, we all just sat watching the rain together, and laughing when one of the horses would try and eat Chey's hat or nibble at us. After a little while, some neighborhood girls came over to be where 'the action' was, and just sat together with us, and I started taking pictures of everyone, much to their delight as well as embarassment (quite common in these parts). Eventually, when the rain slowed down to just a trickle, Chey and I agreed it was time to continue on.

We rode for another little while, and every now and then Chey would say 'Trot?' and I'd say 'Yeah!!!' and we'd start trotting our horses- it was SO much fun! I have done this before, but it has been a long time, and now it was just me and one other rider, out in huge open fields and road, so I really felt like we were free and unrestricted. These were some of my favorite moments on the ride.

One of the planned stops was at a temple/monastary area, and I wound up receiving a little tour from one of Chey's friends who lives there. He took me around and explained about the Khmer Rouge, the origins of the temple, and took me through where there was an actual Monk performing some sort of ritual, which I took a number of photos of. The shrine in this temple was particularly beautiful, almost more so than any other that I've seen so far- so very colorful! -and I was enchanted by the whole experience.

After about a half an hour, it was time to meet up with Chey again. Off we rode, as it was getting close to sunset time, and due to our wait in the rain, we had delayed the timing of our trip by almost an hour (so my entire experience took place over 4 hours instead of 3, which, is fine by me!) Because of the rain, the sky was white and grey, but this just made all of the colors of the fields even more bright and vivid and green- so beautiful! I told Chey that I was happy that it had rained. Also, twice during this final half an hour, a very heavy Cambodian man with thick black glasses rode by slowly on a motorbike and said 'Rachel?' to me, and I was like 'Um....yes?' not knowing how the heck this guy could know my name- but, it was Sarry Pan- the owner of the ranch, who I had not met yet, but had talked to on the phone. He was just checking on our timing, and asked me if I was enjoying myself. I enjoyed his multiple buzz-throughs and greetings, he was a quirky and cheerful guy, and definitely proud of his ranch and the wonderful service that they provide at Happy Ranch. I liked him right away when we spoke on the phone, and I liked meeting him in person even more. "Better get a move on- it's almost time for sunset!" he said, before buzzing away with a smile.

The sun started setting, and I was getting tired after so many hours on the horse, but I was enjoying myself so very much. Here and there we'd trot again, and our horses would slosh through deep puddles and some small streams, and weave our way on small paths under trees, and then onto wide main roads. We finally made it back to the ranch JUST as it was becoming dark, perfect timing. I said goodbye to Mexico, and Chey took me back to my hotel on the ranch motorbike. I thanked him very much, and went back to my hotel, tired and happy from a very full and wonderful day.

That evening I was devoted to relaxing and dining in my room, with the breeze blowing in from the balcony window, reading, and watching my favorite cartoon (since I've come to SE Asia) "The Marvelous Misadventures of Flapjack" on the Cartoon Network- check it out! Soooo weird and soooo good. :) The next day, I had full-on plans for "THE" Angkor Wat, and, the 'Short Tour Circuit'. Stay tuned. :)